Sustainability is Cooperation, Not the Responsibility of Just One Side

The participants were Johanna Paiste, creator and designer of Ärni Blum; Anni Ilves, head designer of Alpaka; and Margot Vaaderpass, creator and designer of WOH Studio.

Ärni Blum is a knitwear brand that values both the well-being of the wearer and the environment. All products are handcrafted in Saaremaa using carefully selected natural, organic, and certified materials.

Alpaka’s core values are closeness to nature, timeless design, and responsible production. The brand creates seasonless garments and accessories, paying close attention to the origin of materials, fair working conditions, and minimizing its ecological footprint.

WOH Studio focuses on home and interior design inspired by Nordic minimalism, combining timelessly elegant aesthetics with an environmentally conscious and ethical approach.

Where sustainability was once associated mainly with durability and environmental protection, today it means much more. In addition to environmental awareness, social responsibility, ethics, and transparency in production are equally important.

“If people don’t feel a desire to wear a product again and again, it can’t truly be sustainable,” noted Anni Ilves, emphasizing that good design begins with an emotional connection to the product.

At the same time, brands have a responsibility to consider the entire production chain – from the origin and quality of materials to what happens to products once they are no longer in use.

Both Ärni Blum and Alpaka contribute to sustainability on a practical level: both brands offer knitwear care services, and Alpaka also provides repair services. Since natural fibers inevitably wear over time, conscious maintenance helps products last as long as possible and supports responsible consumption.

While designers can contribute to sustainability through their choice of materials and design, a product’s true lifespan depends largely on the consumer’s awareness.

“We try to educate our clients as much as possible about proper knitwear care. For instance, wool is self-cleaning – if there’s no visible stain, simply air the item out of direct sunlight and unpleasant odors will disappear. A good comparison is with leather: if you own a leather jacket, you wouldn’t throw it in the washing machine. Wool is just as delicate. As Ärni Blum’s garments are airy and fluffy, we recommend storing them folded on a shelf, and if hanging, using the right kind of hangers. The best ones I’ve found are from WOH,” shared Johanna Paiste.

According to Paiste, a garment’s lifespan begins with care and attention: “Those who care, wear long.” Anni Ilves added that conscious maintenance becomes possible when a person develops an emotional bond with their clothing. When an item is loved, there’s a natural desire to care for and preserve it.

Margot Vaaderpass emphasized that responsibility shouldn’t rest solely on the consumer: “Businesses must also make conscious choices about what they bring to market. Sustainability is cooperation, not the responsibility of just one side.”

All the designers agreed that materials strongly influence both design and creative decisions.

Johanna Paiste explained that working with wool is among the most complex tasks, as Ärni Blum’s knits are made with a zero-waste principle: “We knit garments to shape and work in a way that generates no production leftovers. If I see that an idea can’t be realized using a zero-waste method, I simply don’t make it.”

Anni Ilves noted that alpaca wool has its own character and properties that affect how the yarn behaves and how designs take shape. “The material imposes certain limits, but it also creates new opportunities – every limitation encourages creative solutions,” she said. Alpaka has decided to reduce the use of synthetic fibers and move toward purer natural materials. “Although technologies are advancing, blended fibers still pose challenges in recycling,” explained Ilves.

WOH Studio originated largely from working with recycled polyester felt, which can be heat-formed into different shapes. “In a way, the idea for our first product came directly from the material itself – and from there, the whole brand evolved,” said Vaaderpass. Because recycled felt has a unique pattern and shade each time. “We can’t predetermine what the material will look like—and that’s exactly its charm,” she added.

For Ärni Blum, the origin and natural composition of materials are equally important. The brand uses wool, silk-blend mohair, and organic cotton – ensuring that production aligns with its values. “For example, in the case of merino wool, I’ve found a supplier whose material origin can be traced all the way back to the farm,” said Paiste.

Design that lasts is inevitably reflected in its price, which raises the question: are consumers willing to pay more for higher-quality, ethically made products?

“I’d like to believe we’re moving toward making purchasing decisions not just based on appearance or price, but also on ethical values,” said Margot Vaaderpass.

Anni Ilves observed that Alpaka’s customers are increasingly making fewer impulse purchases and showing more interest in product origins.

“Many of our clients say they’d rather save and wait to buy one high-quality item than several cheap ones,” added Johanna Paiste.

All three designers agreed that sustainability sometimes means letting go – some ideas remain unrealized if they don’t align with brand values or aren’t viable from a production standpoint. “We get a lot of ideas, but not everything needs to be brought to life,” noted Vaaderpass.

At the end of the discussion, the designers shared practical advice for maintaining delicate materials such as alpaca or mohair.

According to Johanna Paiste, it’s perfectly natural for mohair knits to shed a little – that’s simply part of the material’s nature. She suggested an easy trick to reduce fiber shedding: “Put the knitwear in a plastic bag and leave it in the freezer for 24 hours. Then take it out and shake it gently – the loose fibers will come off more quickly.” Paiste also drew a parallel with hair care, explaining that, just like uncombed hair, mohair can form small pills in areas of friction: “If you have a soft-bristled comb, gently brush over the pills and they’ll come off easily.”

Anni Ilves added that alpaca wool benefits from a small care ritual before the first wear: “We recommend brushing the product lightly with a velvet brush before using it for the first time—this removes loose fibers so they don’t cling to your clothes,” she explained. According to her, the shedding decreases quickly, and after a few wears the knit remains in great condition.

In recent years, Estonian design has made remarkable progress, and local brands have developed their own conscious and loyal clientele. “We have quality design that deserves more recognition and preference among local buyers as well,” noted Anni Ilves.

The impact of design extends beyond the products themselves – it reflects our values, habits, and attitudes. Sustainable design begins with the creator, but its true lifespan depends on all of us: the conscious consumers who know how to care for and cherish their belongings and who make choices that respect both people and the environment.