PUUE STUDIO (Sille Randviir): Where Details Become Identity

Sille Randviir’s journey into design began in the small Estonian town of Märjamaa, where she grew up and completed high school. It was during those years that she first started experimenting with clothing and crafts, although becoming a designer was not yet a conscious ambition. “I think the design bug really caught me during high school, around the tenth grade, when I quietly started experimenting with making clothes,” she recalls. Craftsmanship was never a random hobby. “My great-grandmother was a tailor, so perhaps it’s partly in my genes.”

After graduating from high school, Sille trained as a tailor-stylist and spent a couple of years creating bridal gowns, evening wear and custom-made garments. Before long, however, she realised that commission-based work did not provide the creative freedom she was looking for. “I realised it wasn’t really my thing. I wanted to create something of my own,” she says. That realisation took her to Denmark, where she completed a bachelor’s degree in Fashion Design and experienced an international design environment for the first time – an experience that would profoundly shape her creative language.

PUUE STUDIO emerged naturally from her studies and experimentation. The brand’s name itself originated from her graduation project in Denmark, where she explored complex and sensitive subjects, including mental health and social norms. “My graduation project was inspired by Frida Kahlo and I worked with themes of mental disorders and disability,” she explains. “I translated the word into Estonian and that’s how PUUE came about.”

Although the name may initially raise questions, its meaning is conceptual rather than literal. “It isn’t connected to people with disabilities in that direct sense. It reflects my tolerance and empathy towards people who are marginalised in society,” she explains. She admits that she has occasionally considered changing the name, but always arrives at the same conclusion. “I like that it makes people ask questions and that it’s memorable. For me, it’s an important part of the brand’s identity.”

PUUE STUDIO’s visual language has evolved organically rather than through deliberate construction. Sille’s work is instantly recognisable for its asymmetry, monochromatic palette and intricate detailing – particularly metal hardware, straps and suspended structural elements. “It makes me really happy when people say my work has a recognisable signature. That’s the biggest compliment I could receive.” Although her silhouettes often appear minimalist, they always contain layers of carefully considered details that give each garment its own life. For me, quality and details are extremely important. The cut doesn’t have to be overly complicated, but a single zipper or one small detail can completely transform a piece.”

Her creative process, however, is in constant motion. Ideas rarely emerge fully formed on paper or during a planning phase; instead, they develop through making. “Even when I have a clear vision and sketch it out, it changes a great deal during the process,” she explains. More often than not, the final result emerges through draping directly on the mannequin, where the fabric and form begin to guide the design themselves. The process can take anywhere from weeks to several months, although occasionally a piece comes together in a single day – usually when an idea becomes an obsession. “When I get a certain feeling, I simply have to make it immediately.”

Unlike many designers, Sille does not look to nature for inspiration. “I’m not someone who goes into nature to find ideas,” she admits. “I’m much more inspired by the city, architecture, interior design and people.” This gives her work a distinctly urban and international character, closely connected to Scandinavian design principles.

Material awareness and circular design are fundamental to PUUE STUDIO, although putting those principles into practice is not always straightforward. Sille works with as many natural, high-quality fabrics as possible while combining them with reclaimed materials. At the same time, she acknowledges that upcycling has become far more than an ideological choice – it is now also a logistical challenge. “Today, upcycling is much more difficult if you want to build a genuinely sustainable business around it,” she says. “But quality remains my highest priority. I’m not interested in making cheap products.”

At present, Sille handles virtually every aspect of the business herself, from design to production. While this gives her complete creative control, it has also become her greatest challenge. “Everything you see here in the studio has been made by me,” she says. Although she values that level of involvement, the growing demand has reached a point where continuing alone is no longer sustainable. “I simply can’t do it all by myself anymore. Demand has grown and I’m genuinely overloaded.”

Delegating, however, does not come naturally. “I’m a huge control freak,” she admits with a smile. “I have a very clear vision, and sometimes it’s easier to do something myself than explain it to someone else.” Nevertheless, she is gradually building a team, particularly on the production side.

Alongside her design practice, Sille has also worked as a stylist, although she increasingly sees that role becoming secondary. “I definitely identify more as a designer,” she says. “Styling projects take too much energy, and I’d like to move away from them.” Even so, styling has opened the door to a number of exciting creative collaborations, including work on major international stages.

One of the highlights came in 2023, when she designed costumes for Alika Milova’s Eurovision performance. “That experience was simply amazing. Seeing my work on such a huge stage was incredible.” Life in the studio is demanding. “There are times when I don’t even get to my emails for several days,” she admits. As the workload continues to grow, maintaining balance has become increasingly important. “I’ve started valuing my personal life much more. Walking and running help me disconnect and recharge.”

Looking ahead, Sille envisions PUUE STUDIO expanding beyond Estonia through thoughtful, carefully considered growth. Her primary focus is on international markets, particularly Scandinavia and Berlin. “I don’t see the Estonian market as limitless. I’d much rather grow internationally,” she says. At the same time, she is exploring a new visual direction by introducing colour into her collections. “For a very long time I’ve worked almost exclusively with black and neutral tones. Colour is something entirely new for me.”

Yet despite these ambitions, PUUE STUDIO remains a deeply personal project. It is a constantly evolving system in which materials, craftsmanship, and ideas carry equal weight. Rather than striving for perfection, the brand grows organically alongside its creator – adapting, questioning, and evolving with every collection.

Interviewed: Margaret Aidla // Photos: Karmen Alamets