Artist Series

The studio of knitwear artist Liisa Kanemägi is located at Kopli Lines, in a nearly century-old limestone building. Formerly used as the Shipyard Hospital and the university’s chemistry building, the structure now houses a number of creative individuals, and the building is called Signature House.

Liisa mostly knits tops, sweaters, and shirts. She primarily uses linen and wool as materials, and soon also silk. “These materials are body-friendly, yet they feel luxurious and expensive. Linen is my special favorite because it’s a strong material. Black linen even feels a bit graphic on the body. It’s a material with character, and it aligns with the feeling of my brand.”

According to Liisa, her brand is a bit rebellious and challenges the rules of classic beauty and elegance. At the same time, it is also mysterious and curious. “Recently, I came up with a phrase for myself: ‘eccentrically chic.’ I also make things that branch out, meaning they change a bit over time. I enjoy playing with meaning, so that things wouldn’t just be ‘finished’ or ‘broken,’ but they could ‘live on,’” she reflects.

Liisa’s clients have mostly been women, although men have also purchased her creations. “My client is someone who values the emotional worth of clothing over fast fashion. They are willing to pay a little more. They also create their own aesthetic, and for them, self-expression is more important than the practical side of clothing. I think they are also interested in art and design,” Liisa reflects.

Liisa notes that, compared to the past, we no longer feel materials. “We have so many materials, but we know nothing about them. That’s where the sweat pattern idea came from, which would be connected to your body. The idea was to reconnect with the material you’re wearing. I played with the thought that the material could acquire intentional wear marks, memories. That ‘life’ could continue to shape the clothes. My master’s thesis was more of a philosophical reflection, not a research paper.”

Liisa’s great wish is for people to value their clothes and learn to repair them. “Somehow, in society, there’s this understanding that if something has a hole, it’s ruined. But it doesn’t actually mean that it’s trash; we just perceive it that way. Things could wear out with dignity or beauty. With character. That’s why I thought I could intentionally program wear marks into the items.”

We meet with Kaia Saarn in her cozy studio in the heart of Kärdla. In this heritage-protected, sun-yellow wooden house, the jewelry artist will celebrate 15 years of her creative journey this December.

In the early years, Kaia mainly used gold and silver in her creations. “I was stuck with metal and didn’t see the broader possibilities of what else I could use. Some had discovered titanium, glass, or other materials. I wanted to find a material that could be shaped even better than metal,” Kaia recalls.

Her first experiments with nectarine stones took place in 2010. “I had a nectarine stone, and I thought, okay, I’ll cut it in half. Then the idea came to set it on a silver plate. Back then, I used large, heavy gemstones. Now, I make sure the jewelry is always as light and wearable as possible. I made myself the first pair of black earrings, and they immediately attracted a lot of attention. I received feedback saying, ‘Oh, how exciting, I want some too! Do you have more of these?’ And that’s how the first collection started to form,” Kaia explains.

In addition, Kaia makes engagement and wedding rings. “The handover of engagement rings is always a very exciting moment – the person gets so thrilled, like, ‘Wow, how beautiful!’ The feedback is always so positive. That’s when I realize that I enjoy my work. At the same time, I don’t feel like I’m working. I just let it flow out of me. Creativity comes from within each person. My signature style is to combine various natural materials and make them into durable jewelry that can be worn, not just looked at or briefly put on for a photo.”

Currently, Kaia enjoys making large and bold pieces of jewelry from various natural materials. “I love combining interesting materials, like avocado and chestnut bark. I go wild when I’m given free rein. Then I make a large necklace or earrings for the client,” she laughs.

Kaia considers her greatest success to be the opportunity to bring jewelry art to her table while living on Hiiumaa. “I’m happy that my jewelry has a Hiiumaa essence. The theme of the island’s juniper came to me in 2016 when I moved to Paris, and the longing for Hiiumaa hit me hard. Then I thought, ‘Oh my God, has anyone made jewelry from juniper berries?’ We tried with a jeweler who was casting in Tallinn, and it worked out. Today, we cooperate – I send him the juniper berries, he casts them in silver, and then sends them back to me for finishing. He has large casting machines, which I hope to get for myself one day so I can make jewelry from start to finish.”

In addition, Kaia really enjoys holding workshops. “I absolutely love seeing the sparkle in people’s eyes and the joy they get from making things with their own hands,” she says.

On a sunny Friday in July, we visit Lavendlitalu for the Artist Series project, located on the island of Hiiumaa, just a stone’s throw from Kärdla. We are greeted by the smiling hostess Birthe, who, together with her husband Taavi, bought a dilapidated farmhouse and overgrown land here six years ago. Today, under the couple’s hardworking hands, the farm has literally flourished – visitors are welcomed by a wonderfully fragrant lavender field and a tastefully renovated complex of buildings.

Lavender is a well-known aromatherapy plant that calms the mind, relaxes, and promotes good sleep. It is also used in natural cosmetics and skincare for its healing properties – lavender helps with acne and psoriasis, moisturizes, soothes the skin, and has disinfectant and anti-inflammatory effects. Lavender also provides relief for sunburns and insect bites.

According to Birthe, the charm of Lavendlitalu products lies in the pure raw materials. “I know exactly what I make and have made. I know we are certified organic and free from chemicals. We really don’t spray, mist, or fertilize here. I absolutely believe in this pure, natural raw material.”

The family is also a big fan of Lavendlitalu’s cosmetics line. “The most recent product development – the hand and body cream – has become a hit in our family. We finished it in December, and now we’re on our sixth jar. Everyone uses it. I am also a big fan of our entire facial care range. I use the facial water as a toner, and the serum before my night and day creams,” Birthe shares.

Birthe enthusiastically reveals that she wants to expand the natural cosmetics line and is currently developing a shampoo and conditioner, with plans to launch them in the autumn-winter season. “I’ve already had the samples to test and use myself. My friends are using them too. The feedback is good. The time-consuming part is coordinating the documentation with the Health Board and getting into the production cycle with our partner, the manufacturer Magrada Cosmetics Estonia,” says Birthe.

Although the lavender harvest improves every year, the production volume is limited by the size of the field and the amount of essential oil that can be extracted. “For example, last year the harvest was very scarce. As is often the case with farmers, some years are different. This year’s harvest will come, but a bit later. We are often asked to sell our lavender oil because we are certified organic growers. But we simply can’t offer it because we use the amount we get from the field in our own natural cosmetics line. Of course, we could have huge fields here, but we can only expand with this one abandoned field. We don’t have more land right now. It’s also a decision point – whether we want that. Today, alongside our main work, we manage to maintain this field, but if we expand, we’d need to rethink our business model.”

We visited Kristiina Ploom, the founder of her eponymous jewelry brand Kristiina Ploom Jewellery, as part of the Artist Series project.

Kristiina has been involved in art for a long time. As a young person, she participated in several art circles, and during high school, she also attended an art school. When it was time to go to university, Kristiina knew quite firmly that she wanted to study art or design, and she chose to study in England, where she specialized in jewelry.

After university, she continued to learn goldsmithing techniques through various practices in England, Spain, and Estonia. Currently, Kristiina works in a shared goldsmithing studio in Tallinn, which offers a great opportunity to ask for advice and learn more about different techniques.

Kristiina launched her brand in November 2021, focusing on unique pieces, small collections, and exhibition works. The jewelry artist’s creations feature a contemporary minimalist style, bright and striking yet timeless in design.

Each jewelry design is carefully considered, focusing not only on appearance but also on quality, and it does not leave the studio until it is perfected. Kristiina Ploom Jewellery pieces are made from recycled silver and gold, either as one-of-a-kind pieces or in small batches. Custom-made works help express each client’s unique style with a special piece of jewelry created just for them.

In addition to women, some of Kristiina’s clients are men who are searching for the most beautiful engagement ring for their partner. Together, they review and discuss different options and select the best solution. Kristiina happily notes that these are always wonderful and slightly more emotional pieces, especially when clients later share feedback on how and where the proposal was made.

In Tallinn, Kristiina’s works can currently be viewed at Tallinn Design House and the jewelry artist’s studio. Additionally, a selection of her jewelry is represented in one Estonian and one international online gallery.

This time, the Artist Series project visited Tiia Orgna, the creator of the knitwear brand Mithio, in her cozy home studio under the snowy pines of Nõmme. Tiia started her brand in 2009 and has been running the business alone ever since. The only aspect of production that takes place outside of Estonia is the manufacturing, which is done primarily with partners in Lithuania.

Mithio’s product range includes sweaters, cardigans, and scarves. “I’ve always thought of myself as an industry person. I’ve never been able to do a single custom order or spend hours working on one dress. I’ve always had the soul of a producer, to make something that would suit many people.”

In the early years of the brand, Tiia used many different Estonian national patterns. Over time, however, these became less frequent as solid-colored sweaters were introduced, and customers started buying those more.

Tiia mainly uses soft tones in her designs. “Yes, but that’s the Estonian woman. (Laughs.) Otherwise, I wouldn’t have so much white and light beige. The same rule applies to men, solid-colored items are bought the most. But every season, I still try to add a color to one of the designs.”

Tiia uses the yarn from one Italian factory most often, which she has liked since the brand’s early days. “It’s a very light untwisted yarn, and it offers a lot of room to play. You can make knits in any thickness. If you add different patterns and braids to that, the number of combinations is huge. On the other hand, I’ve stuck with it because I know how the knit will turn out in production. There are no surprises. With fashion yarns, you have to start from scratch every season. The result isn’t guaranteed because the model may not work out technically.”

Tiia has always had the mindset that if you’re doing something, it has to be something good that lasts for several seasons. “This has been my principle from the start: don’t make something for just one season. Instead, create something real that lasts and is sustainable. It also definitely has to be practical, because Estonians are very practical. They want a sweater that fits under a coat or jacket and holds up well in terms of wear and care.”

Mithio doesn’t have its own studio shop yet. There is an online store, but Tiia believes it is very important to be represented by resellers because customers still want to try on and feel the knitwear before buying. “You can’t do without physical stores. There’s no other way of thinking about it.”

Tiia considers the greatest success to be the fact that she has survived with her brand. “Every day, you can see those for whom it doesn’t work out – whether it’s bankruptcy or some other reason for closing the business. The fact that Mithio has survived is likely due to my personality traits. I’m stubborn, persistent, and determined, always in action.”

The creator of the Kelpman Textile brand, Mare Kelpman, designs the colorful woolen scarves beloved by Estonians today in her studio in Telliskivi.

Most of Kelpman’s fabrics are made in Finland, and the contact there was also the inspiration for starting the brand. The brand initially began with home textiles and later moved on to scarves. Additionally, various clothing fabrics have been experimented with, and during the summer months, several products are made from linen. Currently, the most popular items are still the various woolen scarves.

The advantage of manufacturing in Finland has been the ability to create small collections. The abundance of patterns and colors has become characteristic of the Kelpman brand. Even if five people have a Kelpman scarf, they are usually in different colors. Some scarves are produced in only six pieces. “If you don’t buy at the right moment, you may miss out. I don’t produce the same scarves again, although I have occasionally knitted some color combinations again by accident. I guess I liked them. Sometimes people don’t realize that it’s not mass production and the quantities are small.”

The Miurio brand is founded by designers Rita Assor and Viktoria Braginskaja. The brand operates in two directions – accessories and home décor products.

The name Miurio is derived from a phrase. “Miu” means graceful feather in Japanese, and “Rio” comes from the name of Rio de Janeiro, the samba capital. The idea was to showcase positivity, femininity, and joy of life – hence, these symbols were engraved into the brand’s identity.

Today, Rita focuses on home décor products, while silk scarves are created in collaboration between the two designers – Viktoria provides the base or design, and Rita does the finishing touches. Rita continues to design silk scarves as her personal work.

Miurio’s collection includes at least 30 different designs of silk scarves, and they have remained most committed to creating silk scarves. In addition, there are home décor items – rugs, sofa cushions, wallpapers.

Over the years, the most popular collections have been “Geisha,” “Pirate Woman,” and “Golden Roman Fountain.” The latter pattern was inspired by a photo of the Four Rivers Fountain in Rome’s Navona Square. Last year, the “New Energy” collection was created, where Rita felt the need for a boost and energy rush. “There were also floral patterns with added messages. The tones are very pastel and soft – it expresses that soft values have an important place,” Rita describes.

A key feature of Miurio is its handmade rugs. “The idea with the rugs has been that they should be functional art pieces – just like large paintings that are bought for their boldness and expressiveness, rugs are bought the same way. They are a central element,” says Rita.

Last year, Miurio began a collaboration with artist Jüri Arrak. “His wife, Kai, contacted me with a desire to create art souvenirs – primarily silk scarves, but I took it a step further. Since I’m a true rug fan, the designs were based on his four paintings,” Rita describes the start of the collaboration.

Jüri Arrak has worked on many different projects, but for this one, he wanted his art souvenirs to be consciously spread more widely. “We managed to finalize a contract, and in his home, there’s also a handmade rug ‘The Watchers’ inspired by the painting, and he saw the beginning of this collaboration. He also saw the silk scarves and gave his blessing for this direction.” The products released at the beginning of last year have been warmly received by the public.

Lisa Kroeber’s brand journey began 12 years ago in Estonia. After high school in Germany, she didn’t have a clear plan of what to do next. However, she was certain that she wanted to do something hands-on, so she started an apprenticeship with a goldsmith. “There, I made metal jewelry for the first time, and I really liked it. I quickly realized that I wanted to create my own designs and jewelry.” She then studied jewelry and gemstone design in Germany. “I started making designer jewelry, but I realized that I wanted to create pieces that could be worn every day. So, I moved back to Estonia and started creating my own brand.”

Today, the company is six years old, and in the team, besides Lisa, are her husband Viljar, and Hanna and Maarja. Lisa does all the designs herself and also takes care of the online store. “And besides that, I take on everything else as needed.”

One of the most distinctive series in Lisa Kroeber’s collection is definitely the Folded series of jewelry. However, she first started with the Leaves series, from which came the desire to create something three-dimensional. “Our bodies are 3D, so I tried to see what I could do with the material. I had already experimented with metal in university, where it could be folded like paper. I wanted to create something colorful again, and the folded model idea came from there.” This led to two series – Folded Slim and Folded Wide.

Lisa sees her clients as independent, beautiful, and stylish women. Today, customers can find her creations both in Estonia and abroad. “Exports have grown especially in the last two years. We have resellers in Germany – in cities like Berlin, Munich, Leipzig, Heidelberg, and Winningen. Now, more are coming. There are also some stores in other European countries selling our jewelry – for example, in Norway, Iceland, and the Netherlands. This has also been our goal, because Estonia is small, and if we want to grow, we need to expand. We’ve made a lot of progress in the past two years, and we’re still trying to reach more.”

The brand Kriss Soonik was founded in 2009. What sets Kriss Soonik apart from its competitors is the blend of lingerie and ready-to-wear. “We tried to make it more comfortable and softer, but at the same time, still keep a little bit of sexiness in it.” Today, ready-to-wear products make up a large portion of the collection, allowing customers to choose between lingerie, ready-to-wear, and loungewear. “The products depend on the mood of the season.”

What motivates Kriss to create a lingerie brand is the exciting opportunity to explore a direction that not many are pursuing. There aren’t many new lingerie designers, and the number is actually decreasing.

“When you have your own brand, you can really do whatever you want.” Of course, Kriss admits that you have to listen to the customer, but sometimes the customer doesn’t know exactly what they want. That’s when you have to offer them something new. “It’s a matter of experimentation – you always have a place to go back to and move forward from. They always say focus on one thing and don’t go here and there. But I’ve chosen a different path – so I don’t get bored.”

Kriss enjoys spending the design period outside of Estonia, being in a warehouse surrounded by fabrics and deliveries, while simultaneously drawing inspiration. “I’ve realized that I need time to try something on my body – to see how things fit. There are usually so many ideas in my head, and until I can actually try them on, I don’t know if they’ll work or not.”

One product that Kriss is very happy with is the waffle fabric kimono. “I had an idea that I wanted to use waffle fabric, but make it cool. The prototype was ready, but then it got stuck. I have to give a bit of credit to Johanna Oden, who suggested making the sleeves angled, not straight. That’s when the design came together. It really turned out great and is different from some of the other products. I wear it all the time, and customers love it too.”

The creator and designer of the Seasoned Traveler parka, Jaanus Vahtra, has his studio on Toompuiestee, alongside several other creative professionals. This is a workshop where Jaanus focuses on product development and prepares for film shoots.

The creation of the Seasoned Traveler parka stems from a desire to develop functional outerwear. “It seems to me that people are willing to invest in a winter coat because it’s something crucial for them.”

“When designing the model, I liked that it is long, keeps the knees warm, and protects the legs from rain. Usually, jackets are short, and when you walk in the woods, your legs eventually get wet. At the same time, I wanted the coat to also have the function of a coat, so you could even wear it to the theater. Now this silhouette has become a standard because, for example, most women also wear long coats.”

All products are made in the Nurme factory in the center of Haapsalu. “Their factory specializes in outerwear. The price level is not what you would find in Asia, but their strength and key advantage is speed. They are quick to make samples and incredibly flexible.”

Jaanus Vahtra considers films and vintage stores important sources of inspiration. “I love rummaging through vintage shops where old items are sold because there are really cool things there. Technologically, it’s fascinating how clothes were made in the past and how beautiful they are, inside and out. There are plenty of clever and cool cuts.”

Traveling is also a key inspiration source for him. “I went to South Africa, and the scene there right now is very vibrant and cool. They mix their African culture with a strong European influence, and that blend is really exciting. In that sense, traveling is definitely useful.” And if there is no inspiration, he recommends reading books.

With his brand, Jaanus Vahtra is currently searching for something special. “Just like alchemists were looking for gold, I am looking for my gold.” However, he points out that although he really enjoys developing parkas, his main focus today is theater and film. “With parka development, it’s fun to do, but I’ll see where I end up with it. It’s not impossible that one day I’ll throw my hands up and realize it didn’t lead anywhere. I don’t have a personal goal of keeping and building a brand.”

Front is a Nordic jewelry brand created by partners and jewelers Mariliis Hopp and Miikael Danieljants. This time, the Artist Series visited the Front studio, located in the Arsi building.

The name “Front” refers to the point where different air masses meet. “That was us – cold and warm air masses coming together. The names of the collections are also derived from the temperature at the time they were created.”

Today, this contrast has become the signature of the brand. In addition to their collection jewelry, Front also creates many custom pieces. For custom orders, the common signature style is clearly noticeable.

“People come to us to try the most unique materials, aiming to fully distinguish themselves with their rings. While we used to make gold rings as well, now the focus has shifted more towards these interesting materials. Gold is still part of it, but these intriguing materials have begun to captivate people,” describes Mariliis.

Samelin is a renowned Estonian footwear manufacturer that has been operating since 1945, when it was known as a leather and footwear factory. The company began operating under the name Samelin in 1994. Leida Kikka has been a steady force at Samelin since 1987. The Samelin Artist Series is dedicated to Leida Kikka’s long journey as the leader of one of Estonia’s most recognized and long-standing shoe factories.

Leida’s eyes light up as she describes how the boots made in Tartu’s Samelin factory are crafted for NATO soldiers as well as for smaller Estonian brands under private labels. “Our main bread and butter are military boots. These are large orders – the quantities are not in the hundreds but in the tens of thousands.

We make them for NATO soldiers, and now also for Norway, Sweden, and Finland. We find clients at military fairs – this year, one was held in Abu Dhabi, where we attended for the fourth time.”

Leida Kikka’s hard work has been widely recognized – she is a notable figure in Tartu, awarded as Woman of the Year, an honorary citizen of Tartu, and a recipient of the Order of the White Star. “Sometimes I think about retiring, but each award brings new energy that encourages me to continue. And I do enjoy being in the spotlight; I am certainly not modest. Modesty is not a virtue.”

“I can work until nine in the evening, but when I step out the door, my workday is over.”

Triinu Pungits’ brand is unique for its distinctive forms and use of fabrics. Triinu Pungits has been designing clothes and textiles for thirteen years. Her studio is located in Tartu, at the Aparaaditehas.

Her interest in creating her own brand began during her studies. Triinu Pungits studied textile design, which at the time didn’t focus much on fashion.

As a designer, she has participated in and won several international competitions. She has competed in places like Moscow, Italy, and Latvia. “The competitions constantly provided the next step forward. The pace was fluid, and I always had the motivation to create the next collection.”

Triinu Pungits’ creations are primarily made as unique pieces. “I’ve only digitized patterns for larger quantities a few times. I like it this way.”

“One realization I’ve come to is that the world needs happy people. A person must be happy, and that’s why they should do what makes them happy.”

In the heart of the Old Town, on Hobusepea Street in the goldsmiths’ house, lies Agnes Veski’s studio. In a single room, several Estonian jewelry artists share their workspaces. According to Agnes Veski, working alongside other artists offers the opportunity to exchange ideas, materials, and technical tips, as well as collaborate on projects.

Agnes Veski’s workbench meets the requirements of a goldsmith’s table. It is a higher table, where the saw frame plays a crucial role. Additionally, the table is equipped with countless drawers to store materials and tools.

The Agnes Veski brand was established in 2018. She studied jewelry art at the Estonian Academy of Arts (EKA), enrolling immediately after high school. “I knew from the beginning that I wanted to study art.” In creating her jewelry, she uses traditional techniques and materials, drawing primary inspiration from Estonian nature.

Eve Hanson’s studio-shop is located in the Telliskivi Creative City, though she does much of her work from home. The desire to meet her clients in person inspired her to open the studio in Telliskivi: “When selling through an online store or design shops, I don’t meet people. Here, I can interact directly with clients – and they are amazing women!” Eve Hanson characterizes her customer as a bold woman who wants to stand out and feel confident. Although Eve’s clothing designs are minimalist, they often offer multiple playful ways to wear them.

“I’ve always said that becoming a designer just sort of happened to me. However, I’ve started to think that it must have come from home – my grandmother was the one who did handicrafts. And all those mystical pattern sheets. Becoming a designer wasn’t my childhood dream, but I chose what I liked.”

Inspired by the body and fabric.

By allowing the movement of the fabric to guide me, I can achieve unique forms that continuously evolve and adapt to the body they fall upon. We are all largely inspired by what we see and long for, but for me, the final result is created through collaboration with the material, considering its nature and movement. That’s why I prefer to design without prior sketches. The fewer mental restrictions I impose on myself when creating a new design, the better the outcome.

Sustainability and harmony with the environment are, for me, the only way to create something new today. This approach, with its additional constraints and rules, provides opportunities for growth and helps find solutions that one can potentially be proud of even twenty or thirty years later. I believe that, just as human relationships require cooperation and balance, so too does our interaction with the world around us. We cannot only take; we must think about how to give back – to live in harmony.

Liisu Arro, the creator of Arro Porcelain, crafts many of her wonderful designs in her home studio in Haapsalu. Liisu is a third-generation artist in her family, expressing her world and warmth through her creations.

Her work blends the ordinary with the extraordinary, and the extravagant with the classic, drawing inspiration from everyday life, nature, and art. Liisu Arro continues the artistic legacy of her parents and grandparents in ceramics, enriching everyday objects with their drawings and paintings.

Liisu has had her own small ceramics studio since 2006, where all her pieces are handmade. These high-quality tableware items are designed to last for generations!

We recently visited a very special brand creator, Äli Kargoja, whose minimalist clothing brand, Studio August, has found a new home in the nostalgic Põhjala Factory.

“Kopli holds a nostalgic value for me. I studied at Kopli Art School until the 8th grade and lived not too far away in Pelgulinn. So, I feel comfortable here, and Studio August fits perfectly with the industrial aesthetic of Põhjala Factory.”

August is characterized by simplicity, minimalism, and functionality. Clean forms, refined details, and a calm expression appeal to those who value elegant clothing and the sustainability of garments.

“The goal is to look beyond the surface layers of fashion creation. As a designer, it’s about taking responsibility for the environmental impact of my actions, while offering clients the choice to contribute to a cleaner living environment by consuming slow and high-quality fashion that lasts.”

“Professionally, my main focus is on developing and managing my brand – from sketches to the final product reaching the store. What drives me is the joy I get from the creative process. Designing clothes and working with fabrics bring me satisfaction and interesting challenges – turning an idea of something beautiful into a tangible reality.”

“Despite the challenging spring months, I’ve reached a beautiful point of balance. This is also thanks to opening my own studio and finding a home for August. So, the desire is to continue moving forward at a comfortable pace.”