This time, the Artist Series project takes us to Hiiumaa to meet Helen Vaks, the creator of Ellu scarves, whose work weaves together a deep respect for folk heritage and a distinctive personal style.
The idea for the Ellu scarves brand was born 15 years ago, when Helen was attending a men’s folk dance festival in Rakvere, where her son was performing. The weather was windy and slightly rainy. Watching the dancers cover themselves with colourful jackets, Helen thought, “My goodness, we have “sõba” (scarf) for that!” Having danced folk dance herself for ten years, she remembered well how “sõba” was traditionally part of festive national costumes. Sitting in the stands, she realised that they were actually missing from use. That was the beginning. The first ten patterns were completed by autumn of the same year, and by Christmas, the first products were ready.
In addition to scarves, Helen now also offers blankets and pillows for the sofa and terrace. Creating harmonious textile solutions for both indoor and outdoor spaces is something she finds very inspiring.
Ellu scarves are adorned with stylised versions of beloved Estonian patterns, following the wisdom and skill of fore-mothers. The creation of these scarves and patterns was preceded by extensive research – Helen gathered material from the Estonian National Museum, the Open Air Museum, and other collections. Her work has been exciting: some patterns she has discovered herself, others have been commissioned. Museums, as well as song and dance groups, have sought out Ellu’s meaningful scarves and blankets.
In Estonian national textiles, messages, wishes, and dreams were expressed through different motifs. Symbols were intertwined with magical beliefs for protection and fortune – in harmony with the people’s worldview, faith, superstitions, and sense of beauty. During the day, blankets lay on the bed, but in the evening, they were thrown over the shoulders to go visiting.
Among the more special recent patterns, Helen highlights the Rõuge “sõba“, which originates from the Open Air Museum’s collection and became the official scarf of this year’s Song and Dance Celebration. The pattern comes from a tiny preserved textile fragment that features the serpent sign and the circle motif – both carrying the power of Estonia forward.
Helen runs the Ellu scarves brand entirely on her own. She says that, at heart, she is first and foremost a creator – she loves her work and does it with great passion. Helen has three children, but many say that Ellu scarves is like her fourth child. Everything she creates comes from the heart – this is her mission, her personal story.
People feel it too. It’s often said that Ellu scarves radiate care and dedication through their meaningful patterns and the story-rich product leaflet included with each item. Many don’t actually know what a “sõba” is – they may recognise the phrase “sõba silmale” (a poetic expression for taking a nap), but not its deeper meaning. In Estonia, shoulder coverings have had many names – “suurrätt, õlalinik, vaip, sõba, tekk” – depending on the region and size.
Helen aims to pass on the story of a specific place through each scarf, always accompanied by a detailed product sheet. For her, it’s essential to broaden people’s understanding and honour the legacy of Estonian women. In the past, women embroidered their wishes and dreams into their scarves – some hoped for children, others for health or marriage. These weren’t just patterns, but spells and protection symbols. It was believed that they held power that shielded the wearer.
Many seek out scarves with patterns from their home region – whether for themselves or as gifts. Others are drawn to the powerful symbols woven into the fabric. Helen has received many heartfelt letters, describing how something shifted inside them or in their life when they wrapped the scarf around their shoulders.
Scarves are often given as gifts to Estonians living abroad – they touch and connect people. The use of healing symbols has led many to say that there’s something special in these scarves, as if a kind of ancestral power has been woven into them. They carry strong energy and offer protection to the wearer.
All of this – the feedback from people, the transmission of cultural heritage, and the deep meaning within the patterns – keeps Helen’s motivation alive.
Looking ahead, Helen sees new patterns and stories waiting to be brought to life. She feels there is still so much to give – so much beauty, symbolism, and strength to share with the world.